Kyle Phillips`s Italian Wine Review (IWR)

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Kyle Phillips's Italian Wine Review (IWR)
The authoritative online consumer newsletter about the wines of Italy
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MONDAY, NOVEMBER 07, 2011
Dolcetto di Diano: Many Good Wines
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Dolcetto is Piemonte's traditional every day wine, and rightly so: It's
light, fruity, lively, with moderate acidity, and a pleasant bitter
almond tannic bite that allows it to go very well with foods. It's also as
a rule quite fresh, with pleasant floral and bitter almond accents on
the nose that only make it more inviting.
From a commercial standpoint, however, Dolcetto's fortunes have
waned in the past 30 years, in part because of decreasing local
Cosa Bolle
consumption -- in the past, come fall, areas whose Dolcetto grapes
The 2010 Bardolino Chiaretto
- During the summer months
one of the nicest simple wines
to break out is Bardolino
Chiaretto, an eminently
drinkable rosè made from the
same varietals -- Corv...
7 months ago
were especially good were mobbed by people buying grapes to make
wine at home, but those days are now gone -- and in part because
Piemonte's Nebbiolo-based wines, Barolo and Barbaresco especially,
have grabbed the international limelight thanks to their complexity
and aging capacity.
Complexity, for Dolcetto, is not a problem, quite the contrary
(incidentally, despite its name -- Dolce means sweet -- the wine
Dolcetto is dry; the name probably derives from the fact that Dolcetto
grapes are low in acidity and therefore taste especially sweet when
chewed upon). What is, on the international stage, I think, is that it is
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Attn: Wine Retailers
not a wine for long aging, but is rather best enjoyed within 2-3 years
of the harvest, after which time the delightful floral aromas and
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freshness begin to give way to more tertiary aromas of leaves and
underbrush, while the fruit, which doesn't have that much acidity to
post. For more information, please
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support it, begins to settle. People find a bottle from Piemonte,
whose wines have a reputation for long aging, buy it without noting
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the vintage, find something past its prime, and decide once burned
twice shy.
store to a particular wine review or
KYLE PHILLIPS
Cosa Bolle (IWR Newsletter)
Therefore, for consumers outside of Piemonte Dolcetto is a potential
How to submit wine samples.
diamond in the rough, a delightful day-to-day wine awaiting discovery.
e-mail
They simply have to remember to look for the current vintages, which
at present would be the 2010 and the 2009; I might also buy a 2008
but would be more cautious with a 2007 and ask to taste a bottle
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Kyle Phillips's Italian Wine Review (IWR): Dolcetto di Diano: Many Good Wines
Pagina 2 di 17
before I bought several.
And Dolcetto di Diano?
IWR uses a simple Three-Star
Rating System
NO STAR goes to wines that are
The Dolcetto varietal grows well in a broad swath of southern
correctly made but nothing to get
Piemonte, from the hills around Ovada and Acqui, though the
excited about.
Astigiano, and on past Alba to Diano and Dogliani; with respect to
Nebbiolo it is more tolerant to altitude, and some of the best Dolcetto
comes from vineyards that are higher than those where Nebbiolo is
ONE STAR goes to wines that are
good.
grown.
TWO STARS go to wines that are
Diano is one of the two areas near Alba that is especially suited to
very good to excellent.
Dolcetto (the other is Dogliani); it's located south of Alba and west of
the Barolo production area, and the town proper sits upon a high ridge
formed by a thick sequence of pale interbedded clays and more
compact calcareous layers; if you drive up to the town on a sunny day
THREE STARS and a POINT SCORE
(90-100) go to wines that are
superb to extraordinary.
the bedrock, where it crops out, is almost blindingly white. The soils
the vines grow on are clayey and calcareous, and the Disciplinare
governing production states that the vineyards must be on sunny
hillsides; flat ground, damp areas, northern exposures, and altitudes
And I will give pairing suggestions,
which I consider much more
important than the scores.
greater than 550 meters above sea level are forbidden. Minimum
planting density is 3,500 vines per hectare (about 2.5 acres), and the
maximum allowable yield of grapes is 8 metric tons per hectare (this
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translates into about 5,600 liters of wine); this is, by modern
standards, generous, and many winemakers will reduce production to
.
increase complexity and concentration.
In addition to the Vino Base released the spring after the harvest,
winemakers can also make Dolcetto di Dogliani Superiore, which must
age for at least 10 months prior to release.
There is one element of confusion to Diano: Since it has long been
known for Dolcetto, and the name "Dolcetto di Diano" doesn't stand
out that much from the various other Docetti made in the area, at
some point some of the winemakers in Diano began simply labeling
their bottles "Diano D'Alba." The custom is by now well established,
and therefore depending upon the winemaker, you will find either
Dolcetto di Diano D'Alba or simply Diano D'Alba.
Enough talk. I tasted the wines this spring, in a tasting organized by
the folks at Albeisa for journalists attending the Nebbiolo Prima
presentation of Barolo, Barbaresco, and Roero. They made for a very
different, and very enjoyable change of pace.
Veglio Giovanni Dolcetto di Diano D'Alba DOCG 2010
Blog Archive
► 2012 (6)
▼ 2011 (136)
► December 2011 (9)
▼ November 2011 (11)
Lively ruby with white rim. The bouquet is fresh, with violets and
berry fruit supported by clean spice and some peppery accents; Fresh.
On the palate it's bright and rich, with lively bitter berry fruit
supported by violets and some bitter almond accents coupled with
clean bright acidity; the tannins are lively and substantial as Dolcetto's
are wont to be. A classic Dolcetto that will go quickly.
2 stars
Savigliano Fratelli Dolcetto di Diano D'Alba DOCG 2010
Garantito IGP: Siena's
Ricciarello is IGP: But
Wha...
The IGP Barolo Tastings:
Verduno, Serralunga and
M...
IGP Tastings: 2007 Barolo From
Barolo, Monforte an...
Garantito Igp - Barolo Vigna La
Rosa Vertical: 200...
Deep violet ruby with violet rim. The bouquet is fairly bright, with
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Kyle Phillips's Italian Wine Review (IWR): Dolcetto di Diano: Many Good Wines
violets and some vegetal accents supported by berry fruit and slight
acidity. On the palate it's powerful with intense violet-laced plum
cherry fruit -- it's a bit riper than some -- supported by dusky tannins
that have powerful bitter accents and flow into a decidedly bitter
finish mitigated by some berry fruit. Pleasant but more charged, a
wine that I would find excessive for daily use, though it will work well
with roasts or stews.
Pagina 3 di 17
Tasted at Dogliani: Cantina
Clavesana
Tasted at Radici: Azienda
Agricola Taurino
Garantito IGP: Stefano's Oil
and The "Crazy Idea"
2 stars
Garantito IGP and The 2007
Barolo: Novello, La Mor...
Veglio Michelino Dolcetto di Diano D'Alba DOCG 2010
Dolcetto di Diano: Many Good
Wines
Barrel Sample
Tasted at Radici: Morella
Ruby with purple highlights. Nice bouquet, with berry fruit that has
some sour notes and bitter almonds. Quite fresh. The palate is bright,
with rich fruit supported by tannins that have a bitter bite and nice
acidity. Promising.
Indignados of the Restaurant
World: Hope or Utopia...
► October 2011 (15)
► September 2011 (12)
Veglio Michelino Dolcetto di Diano D'Alba DOCG 2009
Pale ruby with violet reflections and pink rim. The bouquet is bright
► August 2011 (6)
► July 2011 (11)
and fresh, with violets and raspberry cherry fruit supported by deft
► June 2011 (12)
acidity. Quite graceful. On the palate it's bright, with lively berry fruit
supported by bright berry fruit acidity and sweet tannins that have a
► May 2011 (13)
slight burr and flow into a bright slightly mineral berry fruit finish.
► April 2011 (14)
Graceful, and will go very fast.
► March 2011 (14)
88-90
► February 2011 (13)
► January 2011 (6)
Cantina Salvano Fosco Dolcetto di Diano D'Alba DOCG 2010
► 2010 (57)
Distinctive bottle with string tie and red sealing wax to top the string.
Inky violet. The bouquet is powerful and a bit dusky, with berry fruit
supported by violets and greenish vegetal accents, some hardwood
ash, spice, and slight lactic acid. Gives an impression of extraction.
On the palate it's ample and quite smooth, with rich cherry plum fruit
supported by slight berry fruit acidity and by tannins that are very
► 2009 (30)
► 2008 (41)
► 2007 (40)
► 2006 (38)
► 2005 (15)
smooth and flow into a clean bitter finish. It's an extreme wine with
respect to the others, rounder and smoother, and is not what I'd call a
day-to-day wine; drink it with drier meats, and you will enjoy it if you
like the charged style.
2 stars
Labels
1931 (1)
1937 (1)
1967 Barolo (2)
Abrigo Fratelli Vigna Pietrin Diano D'Alba Superiore DOCG 2009
Lively violet ruby with violet rim. The bouquet is rich, with violets and
red berry fruit supported by some menthol and slight peppery spice.
Quite fresh. On the palate it's full and quite round, with fairly
powerful cherry fruit that gains direction from greenish almond
bitterness and flows into a fairly long warm cherry finish with bitter
underpinning. Pleasant, and as one would expect from its being a
Superiore, it's not a day-to-day wine, but one that will work nicely
with more substantial meat dishes.
2 stars
Alario Claudio Costa Figre Dolcetto di Diano D'Alba DOCG 2009
1996 vintage (1)
1999 Barolo (3)
2003 Barolo (1)
2003 Brunello di Montalcino (6)
2004 Barolo (1)
2004 Brunello di Montalcino (1)
2004 Brunello di Montalcino
Rieserva (1)
2005 Barbaresco (2)
2005 Barolo (1)
2005 Brunello di Montalcino (1)
Deep violet with violet rim. The bouquet is fairly intense in a duskier
key, with violets and wet leather mingled with berry fruit and some
2005 Nobile di Montepulciano (1)
2005 Roero (1)
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Kyle Phillips's Italian Wine Review (IWR): Dolcetto di Diano: Many Good Wines
wood smoke; it's not quite as fresh as some. On the palate it's ample,
with moderate fruit supported by tannins that are fairly smooth, and
by moderate acidity. I found it somewhat settled.
1 star
Pagina 4 di 17
2006 Barbaresco (1)
2006 Barolo (1)
2006 Brunello di Montalcino (1)
2006 Roero (1)
Abrigo Giovanni Sorì dei Crava Dolcetto di Diano D'Alba DOCG 2010
The wine had just been bottled, and was somewhat shocked, with a
muted nose that was not together. On the palate it's full, with
2006 vintage (2)
2006-5 Chianti Classico (7)
2007 Amarone (1)
moderate fruit supported by savory balsamic accents and spice
2007 Barbaresco (1)
coupled with warm berry fruit acidity, flowing into a long warm rather
balsamic finish. It promises well in a fairly graceful, not explosive key.
2007 Barolo (10)
2007 Roero (1)
Abrigo Giovanni Garabei Dolcetto di Diano D'Alba DOCG 2009
2007 vintage (5)
2008 Barbaresco (1)
Lively violet with white rim and black reflections. The bouquet is
fresh and floral, with fairly rich berry fruit supported by some lactic
2008 vintage (3)
acidity -- scalded milk -- and by fresh spice; it's graceful but not
2010 vintage (4)
explosive. On the palate it's bright, with fairly rich berry fruit
supported by minerality and delicate spice that flow into a clean
A fine Lambrusco (2)
slightly spicy finish, while the tannins are very smooth and flow into a
slightly bitter finish. A modern delicate, slightly more restrained
rendition of Dolcetto.
2 stars
Rigo Secondo Dolcetto di Diano
D'Alba DOCG 2009
Abruzzo (1)
Aglianico (2)
Aglianico del Taburno (1)
agricola vallone (1)
alban hills (1)
Albarossa (1)
Altered Wines (1)
A note: I had tasted this at
Vinitaly, and because of the time
allotted at Diano simply swished
it, sniffed, and tasted, and wrote
very good after jotting a score of
88-90. The note below is from
Vinitaly, where, as you will note,
the score was the same.
alternative closures (1)
Altura (1)
Alvio Pestarino (1)
Amalia Cascina in langa (1)
Amarone (8)
amarone della valpolicella (3)
Ambra Tiraboschi (1)
Lively cherry with violet accents.
The bouquet is classic, with rich
ampanian wines (1)
violets mingled with berry fruit
Amphora Wines (1)
and bitter almonds, and hints of underbrush as well, and some deft
spice that keeps things moving right along. On the palate it's quite
Angelucci (1)
nice, with rich prune laced fruit shot with violets and graphite
Angiuli Donato (1)
bitterness and warmth, and supported by mineral acidity and tannins
Ansonaco (1)
that have a graphite shaving bitter burr and flow into a clean fresh
finish. A classic Dolcetto that will drink very well with simple grilled
anteprime (1)
meats, or light stews, and that will also be a nice cookout wine,
working well with both hot and cold foods.
88-90
Antica Casa Vinicola Scarpa (1)
Antiche Cantine de Quarto (1)
Antinori (1)
Appellations (2)
Azienda Agricola Produttori Dianesi Diano D'Alba DOCG 2010
apulian reds (2)
Lively ruby with some orange in the rim. The bouquet is fresh, with
Apulian whites (2)
violets and berry fruit supported by some vegetal accents and bright
Apulian wines (3)
greenish acidity. On the palate it's full and rich, with lively cherry and
berry fruit supported by sweet tannins and some almond bitterness.
Very approachable, though somewhat lighter than some, and will
Arianna Occhipinti (1)
Arneis (2)
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Kyle Phillips's Italian Wine Review (IWR): Dolcetto di Diano: Many Good Wines
drink quickly with simple foods, including drier meats. You'll likely
want a second bottle.
2 stars
Pagina 5 di 17
Arnione (1)
aromatic wines (3)
Aurelio Settimo (3)
Prandi Giovanni Sörì Colombè Dolcetto di Diano D'Alba DOCG 2010
Azienda Agricola Aldrighetti - Le
Bignele (2)
Lively violet with black reflections and cherry rim. The bouquet is
Azienda Agricola Tessère (2)
moderately intense, with some berry fruit and some scalded milk -- it
was bottle shocked, and the palate provides a better indication; it's
Azienda Agricola Villa (4)
bright, fairly light, and more acidic than many, with sour cherry
Badia a Coltibuono (4)
raspberry fruit supported by tannins that have a greenish peppery burr
and flow into a bright sour cherry and raspberry finish with pleasant
bakeries (1)
bitter almond underpinning. It's a wine to set out and drink, and will
barbaresco (4)
go fast, with simple grilled meats, or fired meats and vegetables too.
Barbera (8)
2 stars
Barbera D'Alba (1)
Barco Reale (1)
Poderi Sinaglio Sorì Bric Maiolica Dolcetto di Diano D'Alba DOCG
2010
Bardolino (4)
Bardolino Chiaretto (4)
Deep violet with violet rim. The bouquet is fairly rich, with violets and
berry fruit supported by some greenish spice and deft greenish
acidity, as well as hints of sweetness. On the palate it's bright, with
moderately intense cherry and red berry fruit with some raspberry
accents supported by moderate acidity and some sweetness, with
underlying tannins whose burr provides definition. It's a little lighter
than some, and very easy to drink. Expect it to vanish.
2 stars
barolo (7)
Barolo Bricco Sarmassa (1)
Barolo Rocche (2)
Barolo Tastings (2)
Barolo Verticals (2)
beekeeping (1)
Beer (1)
Briccomaiolica Sorì Bricco Maiolica Diano D'Alba Superiore DOCG
2009
Bellaguardia (1)
Bersi Serlini (1)
Deep violet ruby with violet reflections and pale rim. The bouquet is
Biancini Palma (1)
reduced at first sniff, but as it oxygenates reveals red berry fruit and
Bibbiano (1)
some spice. On the palate it's full, with moderately intense sour berry
fruit supported by warmth and slightly balsamic tannins that flow into
blush wines (1)
a warm berry fruit finish. It's more heavy set than some of the others,
Bolgheri (4)
and lacks that light deftness that distinguishes some of the other
Diani.
Bolgheri Superiore (3)
1 star
Boffa F.lli Sorì Paradiso Diano D'Alba DOCG 2010
Bombino Bianco (2)
Bosco Eliceo (1)
botticino (2)
bottle fermented wines (1)
Violet with violet rim. The bouquet is bright, with violets and berry
fruit supported by greenish accents, and still coming together but
promising. On the palate it's bright and fresh, with lively cherry fruit
supported by red berry fruit sweetness and tannins that have a dusky
burr, and by sour berry fruit accents that flow into a warm tart
brash wines (1)
Bread and breakfast (1)
brezza (1)
Bruna Ferro (1)
blackberry finish with clean tannic underpinning. It will go quite fast
and be quite versatile.
Bruna Grimaldi (1)
2 stars
Brunello (1)
Brunello di Montalcino (5)
Camparo Sorì Bric Camparo Diano D'Alba DOCG 2010
Brunello Fraud (1)
Deep violet with cherry rim. The bouquet is moderately intense, with
bubbly (7)
some lactic accents and berry fruit; it's still coming together. On the
Burgundy (1)
palate it's rich and rather sweet, with violets and red berry fruit
supported by tannins more than acidity and flows into a warm tannic
Cabernet (3)
Cabernet-Merlot blends (1)
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Kyle Phillips's Italian Wine Review (IWR): Dolcetto di Diano: Many Good Wines
finish. It's more extracted and sweeter than most, and also more
particular, though some berry fruit acidity does emerge in the finish
to confer warmth.
1 star
Pagina 6 di 17
Calabrian wines (1)
Calce (1)
Camartina (1)
Campanian wines (2)
Casavecchia Sorì Bruni Diano D'Alba 2010
Deep violet ruby with cherry rim. The bouquet is moderately intense,
with violets and some bitter accents mingled with some herbal
Campriano (2)
candido (1)
Cantalupo (1)
accents and bitter greenish almond notes. On the palate it's ample
cantele (2)
and soft, with moderately intense berry fruit supported by warmth
and tannins that are fairly smooth, and flow into a clean bright berry
cantine olivi (1)
fruit finish with some dusky bitter notes. Pleasant and will drink
Caparzo (1)
quickly; though there is some vegetal acidity it's not quite as bright as
capezzana (3)
some of the others.
2 stars
carema (1)
Carlo Macchi (11)
Renzo Castella Enotecnico Rivolta Dolcetto di Diano D'Alba DOCG
Carmignano (5)
2010
Carpenè Malvolti (3)
Deep violet ruby with lively cherry ruby rim. The bouquet is fairly
rich, with violet laced sour berry fruit supported by dusky bitter
almonds, clean spice, and some vegetal accents with slight underlying
sweetness. The palate is bright, with lively cherry and blackberry fruit
supported by moderate mineral acidity and by tannins that are
Carussin (1)
Casanova di neri (1)
Cascina Luisin (1)
caves (1)
smooth, with a slight spicy burr, and flow into a clean, fresh, cherry
and forest berry fruit finish. Quite pleasant, and will go very fast with
caving (1)
everything from fried foods to quickly grilled meats to the fixings of a
Cepparello (1)
cookout.
88-90
cefalicchio (1)
Cerretalto (1)
Cesari (1)
Angelo Colla Sorì du Rabin Dolcetto di Diano D'Alba DOCG 2010
Deep violet ruby with white rim. The bouquet is fairly rich, with
violets and berry fruit laced with bitter almonds and some elegant
chainti classico (1)
Chalet Mattias (1)
Chardonnay (1)
greenish accents. Very pleasant to sniff, and as it opens slight candied
cheap eats (1)
fruit accents also emerge. On the palate it's full, with rich fairly sweet
cherry blackberry fruit supported by mineral acidity and tannins that
Chianti (2)
flow into a fairly bright mineral tannic finish with berry fruit
Chianti Classico (12)
underpinning. It's a bit sweeter than some (though not a sweet wine),
Chianti Colli Fiorentini (3)
and this will make it that much more approachable for those who
prefer wines that are not aggressive, while it does have complexities
Chianti Colli Senesi (2)
for the "serious" wine drinker too. In short, versatile and for a broad
Chianti Rufina (3)
audience.
Chirstmas pastries (1)
2 stars
Cilento (1)
Il Palazzotto Vigna Santa Lucia Dolcetto di Diano D'Alba DOCG 2010
Clavesana (2)
Clelia Romano (1)
Deep violet with black reflections and violet rim. The bouquet is
climate change (1)
muted, though swishing brings up some berry fruit and slight
coastal wines (1)
underbrush; it's still coming together. On the palate it's full and fairly
sweet, with berry fruit supported by some berry fruit acidity, and by
warmth and tannins that have a slight burr, and flow into a fairly long
warm finish. A little less bright than some, and a little more languid.
2 stars
Gerlotto Sorì Vigna Dolcetto di Diano D'Alba DOCG 2010
Cogno (1)
Colle San Domenico (1)
Collezione De Marchi (1)
Colli Orientali del Friuli (1)
Colli Piacentini (1)
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Kyle Phillips's Italian Wine Review (IWR): Dolcetto di Diano: Many Good Wines
Pagina 7 di 17
Collio (1)
Deep violet with violet rim. The bouquet is fairly intense, with violets
and berry fruit laced with blackberry sweetness and some underbrush.
Commendator Burlotto (2)
On the palate it's full, and bright, with lively sour berry fruit
supported by clean bright berry fruit acidity that has some bitter
Conte di Campiglia (1)
accents, and flows into a clean fresh tannic finish. Quite pleasant, and
Conti Spagnoletti Zeuli (1)
will be extremely versatile at table.
Conterno (1)
Contini Bonacossi (1)
2 stars
cooperative wineries (1)
Cascina Sorba G.e.m.m.a. Cascina Sorba Dolcetto di Diano D'Alba
DOCG 2009
Corks (2)
Cortese (3)
Violet ruby with cherry rim. The bouquet is fairly intense, with berry
Cortese Passito (2)
fruit and some spice mingled with vegetal accents. On the palate it's
cosimo III de'medici (1)
ample and fairly soft, with fairly bright fruit supported by deft acidity
and smooth tannins; by comparison with some of the others the bitter
cosimo taurino (2)
Costadoro (1)
almond accents typical of Dolcetto are less pronounced.
Costiera Amalfitana (1)
2 stars
Cserszegi (1)
Le Cecche Diano D'Alba DOCG
Culinary Ruminations (1)
Impenetrable deep violet ink with violet rim. The bouquet is bright,
with cherry fruit supported by violets and by some bitter almonds,
with greenish vegetal accents as well. On the palate it's fresh, with
bright berry fruit supported by moderately intense tannins and dusky
Cà Lojera (2)
D'Alfonso del Sordo (2)
Dante (1)
bitterness with pleasing savory notes too. Pleasant and quite
approachable thanks also to richness of fruit; it will work very well
Deat metal (1)
with foods and go quite fast.
Disciplinari (1)
2 stars
dessert wines (2)
Dogliani (3)
Posted by Kyle Phillips at 3:23 PM
Dolcetto (7)
Labels: Dolcetto, Dolcetto di Diano, easy to drink wines, Italian red
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wines, Piemontese wines, Quaffing wines
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Kyle Phillips's Italian Wine Review (IWR): Dolcetto di Diano: Many Good Wines
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