World commodity markets

ICE-TDB
Textile Training course
(15-20 march 2010, Suzhou)
Industrial policy for
Textile and Fashion Industry
Table of contents
1.
2.
3.
4.
General framework
Industrial policy for sectors and clusters in
the ‘90s
Industrial policy for competitive framework
and companies’ networks in the 2000s
Industrial policy for the next future
General framework
Milan - Italy
tel. +39 0264119.1 - fax. +39 026610.3667-70
[email protected] - www.sistemamodaitalia.com
CONFINDUSTRIA MEMBER
-4-
SISTEMA MODA ITALIA
WHO WE ARE
SMI – Sistema Moda Italia (Italian Textile and Fashion Federation) is one of the world’s
largest organizations representing the textile and fashion industry.
The Federation protects and promotes the interests of the sector and its members.
Sistema Moda Italia represents the entire supply chain on a national and international
level and is the official interlocutor in relations with Italian and international institutions
and organizations.
Sistema Moda Italia maintains relations with government agencies,
administration, and with economic, political, labor, and social organizations.
public
As the national federation for the category, it is composed, on a voluntary basis, of both
companies and associations and is well established throughout Italy.
SMI is a member of Confindustria, the Confederation of the Italian industrial companies.
SMI is also the most important founding member of Euratex, the European Association
of Textile and Clothing Manufacturers.
-5-
SISTEMA MODA ITALIA
WHO WE ARE
Sistema Moda Italia closely follows the development and changes underway in
the textile and fashion industry and assists the Italian companies in the sector
through exclusive representation and a wide range of services and activities.
The Federation therefore helps the industry solve problems regarding
production, technical and legal aspects, and economic and commercial issues.
Deeply committed to the development and growth of every area of the textile
and fashion industry, SMI also deals with market aspects, promotional
activities, and internationalization processes.
-6-
SISTEMA MODA ITALIA
THE COMPANIES AND THE MARKET
Sistema Moda Italia, as national federation,
represents a sector, with 500,000 employees and
nearly 50,000 companies, that is a mainstay of Italy’s
economy and manufacturing industry.
The overall national turnover of approximately 50
billion euros represents more than 25% of the entire
European turnover and is a significant portion of the
active balance of trade in Italy.
SMI, with its 2,000 member companies, offers a
complete panorama of the Italian textile and fashion
industry.
-7-
SMI members and the entire textile &
fashion sector
COMPANIES
EMPLOYEES
TURNOVER
3%
20%
50%
-8-
SISTEMA MODA ITALIA
AREAS AND SERVICES
Sistema Moda Italia, which is committed to making the textile
and fashion sector one of the most important economic
resources of Italian industry, is divided into these Areas and
Services:

- Federation Business and Membership Development

- Industrial Policies, Economy and Enterprise

- Europe and International Trade Regulations

- Labor Relations and Training

- Research Center

- International Promotion

- Supply Chain Relations

- Legal Affairs

- Technology and Environment
-9-
SISTEMA MODA ITALIA
 FEDERATION BUSINESS AND MEMBERSHIP DEVELOPMENT
SMI coordinates and manages the relationship between the
Federation and other confederations to improve institutional
representation of the sector. It promotes activities to develop
membership and to better interpret company needs. It creates the
best conditions for promoting Federation activities and services
within the system. It systematically monitors company needs and
supplies services designed to support company growth in an everevolving market.
 INDUSTRIAL POLICIES, ECONOMY AND ENTERPRISE
To ensure the competitiveness of the textile and fashion industry,
SMI studies and promotes sector policies in Italy and the European
Community. It also promotes specific policies for the industry on local
and regional levels. It analyzes and monitors laws regarding taxes,
finance, and business. It also makes proposals to encourage product
and process innovation.
-10-
SISTEMA MODA ITALIA
 EUROPE AND INTERNATIONAL TRADE REGULATIONS
SMI protects the interests of the sector in the European Community
and abroad by remaining in close, continuous contact with
supranational government agencies, associations, and organizations.
It monitors and encourages fair trade and participates in EC projects
designed to develop trade policies and improve the competitiveness of
the industry.
 LABOR RELATIONS AND EDUCATION
SMI represents the sector during negotiations and stipulation of the
national labor contract. It protects the interests of the sector in all
issues pertaining to industrial relations and labor laws.

Labor and Social Security
SMI provides members with up-to-the-minute information, consulting, and assistance in
interpreting and applying the national labor contract and all the laws concerning labor, social
security, and welfare. It also organizes seminars on separate issues that are particularly
important to the sector.

Education
SMI provides members and training centers with data and updates on sector needs and on
the offer available to companies on a national level. It furnishes updated information on
special financing and facilitations available to companies.
-11-
SISTEMA MODA ITALIA
 RESEARCH CENTER
SMI closely monitors statistics and the most important macro and microeconomic
variables to support the strategic vision of the Federation and its members,
processing data and information to assist in the decision-making process. It supplies
all official statistics to government agencies, the media, and trade fair organizations. It
promotes entrepreneurship culture through publications and studies for various
sectors in the textile-fashion system.
 INTERNATIONAL PROMOTION
SMI’s goal is to support and strengthen the international reputation of its member
companies abroad, through promotional activities that highlight the creativity, high
quality and innovation which set apart Italy from the rest of the world. SMI develops
and implements initiatives aimed specifically at our target markets in the European
Community and around the world, developing and applying effective strategies and
tools, including market research, exploratory missions, arranging for new buyers to
visit Italy, actions to support industry promotion abroad, workshops and trade fair
events.
The SMI Office in Shanghai – It coordinates the SMI branch in Shanghai, whose
mission is to strengthen the Italian presence in China, by promoting dialogue and
partnership between upstream and downstream sectors in the Italian and Chinese
textile and fashion supply chain, thus creating business opportunities for textile
companies.
-12-
SISTEMA MODA ITALIA
 SUPPLY CHAIN RELATIONS
SMI coordinates actions and events for the industry and for its areas and
product groups and promotes cooperation and exchange of information
and knowledge between member companies in every category
represented by the Federation, with the aim to increase their synergies.
 LEGAL AFFAIRS
SMI provides legal assistance regarding intellectual property and
counterfeiting, contracts with sales agents and, in general, supports in
drafting of commercial agreements. It also provides information and
updates on the latest laws concerning these aspects.
 TECHNOLOGY AND ENVIRONMENT
SMI studies the latest technological and regulatory developments to
anticipate new eco-compatible industrial processes and the development
of laws and procedures with a low environmental impact. It organizes
special seminars and conferences studying these new developments. It
also constantly monitors existing laws on the subject.
-13-
SISTEMA MODA ITALIA
ORGANIZATION: SECTIONS
Sistema Moda Italia has grouped its
members into 8 Sections, which represent
all product categories in the system:
A. Spinning and preparatory processes
B. Weaving
C. Textile finishing
D. Home linen
E. Knitwear
F. Lingerie, underwear and hosiery
G. Clothing
H. Miscellaneous textiles and components
-14-
SISTEMA MODA ITALIA
ORGANIZATION: GROUPS
The sections are, in turn, divided into 27 product Groups, which
include businesses working in the same production sectors:
A. Cotton and wool spinning
B. Weaving (furnishing fabrics, apparel fabrics, knitted fabrics)
C. Knitted and woven fabrics dyeing, yarns dyeing, photoengraving, printing
D. Contract/Hospitality
E. Knitwear for women and men
F. Lingerie, underwear and beachwear, men’s and women’s
hosiery
G. Men’s, women’s, and children’s clothing, work outfits,
shirting, ties and scarves, bridalwear and formalwear
H. Buttons and components, material for medication, raw cotton,
sewing threads
All the events and activities of the industry, sections, and groups
aim at intensifying joint efforts and the dialogue between
companies on issues of broad and/or specific interest for each
product category.
-15-
YOUNG ENTREPRENEURS GROUP
SMI’s Young Entrepreneurs Group was
established as a meeting place for young
entrepreneurs of the textile and fashion
industry with common experiences.
Through constructive discussion and with
the final objective of protecting and
promoting sector activities, the Group
intends to encourage the training of young
entrepreneurs, their participation in the
association, and their insertion in the
system.
-16-
YOUNG ENTREPRENEURS GROUP
It also aims to promote awareness of the
ethical and social purpose of free enterprise
and the importance of membership in the
association.
Entrepreneurs between 18 and 40 years of
age can have access to this group.
-17-
Italian Textile-Fashion Industry
Detailing the specifications:




Manufacturing sector >> export
Complete pipeline
Industrial districts
SMEs - Small and medium
enterprises (480.000 empl. and 50.000
companies: 10 empl./comp.)
Italian T&F Industry: a complete
pipeline
Fibres Industry
Textile
Machinery
Industry
Spinning
Weaving
Textile
Chemical
Industry
Finishing
Knitting
Clothing
Retail
Final Consumer
Home-textile
Production: industrial districts
many SMEs located in many Industrial
Districts spread around Italy
many parallel processes made on small
scales
(NO: sequential processes made on large scales)
Complex Adaptive System
characterised by Incremental Innovation,
Flexibility and Quick-Response
Within the Industrial Districts
external economies of scale:
social sense of belonging, contextual knowledge,
specialisation and informal integration
fragmentation is recomposed
Fashion in the first period of modern era





Very large diffusion in the population; big market
- but geographically segmented;
Answering to a need of identification, more than
distinction;
Absorbing an industrial “push”;
Permitting large productions of standardized
items;
With a product life cycle frequently longer than a
single season and geographically replicable
(what was fashion in the USA one year could
become fashion in Europe next year).
Fashion today: a “network” business
technical innovation and intense competition,
consumer’s need for variety and change





Very segmented diffusion; niche markets – but globally;
Answering to a need of distinction and identification (i.e.
status symbol);
Reacting to the consumers “pull”;
Asking for customisation;
very short life cycle of products, even if in some mixed way.
T&F Made in Italy: SWot analysis
Weaknesses
Strengths
Size
Family business
Skills
Niche market
Specialization
Good image (Made in Italy)
Few global brands
Internationalization
Global competition
History
Production orientation
Clusters (economy of scope)
Finance
Flexibility
Banking System
Quick response
Policy makers’ opinion
T&F Made in Italy: swOT analysis
Opportunities
Threats
International Growing Market
China/India
Luxury Niche
Energy Costs
Innovation & Technology
Transport Costs
Supply-chain
Consumer Budget
Global Network
Retail Strategy
Italian T&F Industry: a dynamic tradition
Fast/flexible
Close/interlinked
Worth/meaningful
Fast Fashion: a successful model suitable
for Italian T&F
Fast Fashion: the business model
Traditional Model
Time to market
Multiplier of
average value
(from materials to
final product)
Turnover average growth
(2002-2006)
Fast Fashion
18/24 months
Up to 2 weeks
~ 6/8
~ 2/2,5
~ +0,6%
~ +17%
Source: The European House Ambrosetti – Cietta
Italian Textile-Fashion Industry
(2005-2009)
2005
2006
2007
2008
2009
Turnover
% change
53.056
53.361
55.021
54.117
45.187
0,6
3,1
-1,6
-16,5
Exports
% change
Imports
% change
Trade balance
% change
26.572
27.559
28.070
27.775
22.137
3,7
1,9
-1,1
-20,3
17.465
17.912
17.774
15.826
12,2
2,6
-0,8
-11,0
10.094
10.158
10.001
6.310
-8,3
0,6
-1,5
-36,9
516.674
512.956
508.200
482.282
-1,6
-0,7
-0,9
-5,1
51,6
51,0
51,3
49,0
Employees (thousand)
% change
Structural Indicator (%)
Export/Turnover
Fonte: stime SMI-LIUC
15.568
11.004
524.930
50,1
Il Tessile-Moda: l’estero
Periodo: Gennaio-Settembre 2009
IMPORT
Valore
(mld. €)
TESSILE-MODA
TESSILE
ABBIGLIAMENTO-MODA
12,066
Var.% tend.
-10,4
3,514
-23,0
8,552
-4,0
EXPORT
Valore
(mld. €)
Var.% tend.
16,780
-20,0
5,706
-26,2
11,074
-16,4
Fonte: SMI su ISTAT
Il Tessile-Moda: commercio con l’estero
Periodo: Gennaio-Settembre 2009 (Var. % tendenziali)
TESSILE
ABBIGLIAMENTO-MODA
INTRA-UE
EXTRA-UE
Export: -25,4%
Export: -27,3%
Import: -24,5%
Import: -21,8%
Export: -11,9%
Export: -21,6%
Import: -9,2%
Import: -0,9%
Fonte: SMI su ISTAT
Il Tessile-Moda: la congiuntura nel 2009
Fatturato
(Var. % tendenziali)
Analisi per comparti
Analisi per mercato
5
5
0
0
-5
-5
-10
-10
-15
-15
-20
-20
-25
-25
Tessile
1° trim. 09
Vestiario
2° trim. 09
Tessile-Moda
Italia
Estero
3° trim. 09*
1° trim. 09
2° trim. 09
Totale
3° trim. 09*
Fonte: SMI su Indagine Campionaria Interna, 2009
Il Tessile-Moda: la congiuntura nel 2009
Produzione (Italia)
Occupazione (Italia)
(Var. % tendenziali)
(Var. % tendenziali)
5
2
0
0
-5
-2
-10
-4
-15
-6
-20
-8
-25
Tessile
1° trim. 09
Vestiario
2° trim. 09
Tessile-Moda
3° trim. 09*
-10
Tessile
1° trim. 09
Vestiario
2° trim. 09
Tessile-Moda
3° trim. 09*
Fonte: SMI su Indagine Campionaria Interna, 2009
Il Tessile-Moda: la congiuntura nel 2009
Rilevazione 2008
Sentiment degli operatori
evoluzione congiuntura
Rilevazione 2009
(Quote %)
(Quote %)
19,3
27,4
51,3
49,5
38,3
50,3
22,0
17,4
11,1
4,9
11,8
7,8
58,7
45,6
41,9
Vestiario
T essile-Moda
36,8
T essile
Stabile
Migliora
Peggiora
50,6
Tessile
Stabile
Vestiario
Migliora
55,3
Tessile-Moda
Peggiora
Fonte: SMI su Indagine Campionaria Interna, 2008-2009
Il modello giuridico dell’Unione
Europea
Livello Unione
Europea
Consiglio dei Ministri
e Parlamento
Parlamento nazionale
Livello nazionale
Parlamento regionale
Livello regionale
azienda
Industrial policy for
Textile and Clothing Industry
1.
General framework
2.
Industrial policy for sectors and clusters
in the ‘90s
3.
Industrial policy for competitive framework and
companies’ networks in the 2000s
Industrial policy for the next future
4.
La politica industriale negli
anni 90
1.La politica industriale per
settori produttivi
2.La politica industriale per i
distretti
La politica industriale per settori
produttivi
1992 – 1996
Il Piano Nazionale di Ricerca per il settore
Tessile ed Abbigliamento
(93 milioni di euro al valore attuale)
Finanziamento delle attività di ricerca di vari
consorzi sulla filatura, la tessitura, la tintoria,
la stampa…
Il Piano Nazionale di Ricerca per il
settore Tessile ed Abbigliamento

Criticità


Aggregazioni solo
temporanee, senza
consolidamento di
rapporti tra aziende
Enfasi solo sulla parte
tecnologica
Pochi rapporti con le
Università e i centri di
ricerca
Legge sui distretti (1996)
Finanziamenti per la costituzione di comitati di
Distretto, con la partecipazione di aziende,
sindacati e rappresentanti delle istituzioni
 Fondi a disposizioni per creare strutture di
servizio attive nei Distretti: centri servizi, centri
per la diffusione tecnologica…

Legge sui distretti (1996)


Criticità


Nascita di strutture molto burocratizzate
Doppioni con il ruolo di programmazione
dello sviluppo territoriale delle Pubbliche
Amministrazioni locali
Difficoltà ad assumere decisioni operative
Difficoltà ad introdurre innovazione (enfasi
sulla tradizione) e diversificazione verso
settori nuovi e più promettenti
Industrial policy for
Textile and Clothing Industry
1.
2.
General framework
Industrial policy for sectors and clusters in the ‘90s
3.
Industrial policy for competitive
framework and companies’ networks in
the 2000s
4.
Industrial policy for the next future
La politica industriale per fattori e reti
di imprese negli anni 2000
1.L’assetto normativo europeo
2.La politica industriale italiana:
Industria 2015
L’assetto normativo
europeo:
evitare il nazionalismo,
potenziare la concorrenza nel
Mercato Interno
Niente programmi di aiuti e/o incentivi a settori
specifici
 Niente programmi di aiuti e/o incentivi senza
un preventivo controllo della Commissione UE

Industria 2015
Progetti di innovazione industriale
per gruppi di imprese
(Strumenti di incentivo a bando, con fase
negoziale)
nuove tecnologie per il Made in Italy
(180 milioni di euro nel 2008):
 Moda
 Arredamento
/casa
 Meccanica/elettronica
 Alimentare
Industria 2015:
Le nuove tecnologie per la
moda
Vantaggi:
Risorse
ingenti per progetti di
ampio respiro
(ogni progetto deve prevedere almeno 3/5
milioni di euro di costi)
Possibilità
di negoziare e quindi
di ampliare la collaborazione con
il Ministero
Le nuove tecnologie per la moda:
un esempio
Sistemi informatici di co-progettazione
Industria 2015
Strumento automatico di incentivo
credito di imposta
per ricerca e sviluppo
anche per campionari e collezioni
che rappresentano la gran parte della ricerca
delle PMI italiane del settore T&M
Industria 2015:
credito di imposta per ricerca e
sviluppo
Vantaggi:
Capillarità
Non
discrezionalità
Prevedibilità
Assetto degli strumenti per la
concessione di incentivi pubblici
Oggi
 91
strumenti di
agevolazione
nazionale
 1261 strumenti di
agevolazione
regionale
Assetto degli strumenti per la
concessione di incentivi pubblici
Dal 1 gennaio 2011
1
unico fondo nazionale
 1 sede stabile di concertazione tra
Ministero dello Sviluppo Economico e
Regioni
 2 tipologie di strumenti:
Assetto degli strumenti per la
concessione di incentivi pubblici
PMI e finanziamenti fino a € 1 milione:
strumenti automatici
TEMPI: 30 giorni per accertamenti ed
erogazione
 Per
 Per
progetti di importo maggiore:
procedura negoziale (con appositi tipi di
contratto) o valutativa
TEMPI: 4 mesi di tempo per concessione degli
incentivi
Le proposte di SMI per superare la
crisi economica
(In) Vestire in Italia
Il Tessile-Moda come risorsa
rinnovabile per il Paese
Stimoli selettivi ai consumi
1
RIGENERARE
LA MODA
Il recupero dell’abbigliamento usato
come facilitazione per l’acquisto di
capi nuovi
2
AIUTARE LA
FAMIGLIA CHE
CRESCE
Deducibilità fiscale per le spese di
abbigliamento per l’infanzia, via
scontrino parlante
3
RIGENERARE
L’ACCOGLIENZA
Riqualificazione delle strutture
turistiche vetuste o degradate
NEW PUBLIC
PROCUREMENT
La domanda pubblica come volano di
sviluppo
4
5
DEFISCALIZZARE LA
TRASPARENZA
Agevolare fiscalmente i prodotti che
attestano il rispetto alle norme ecotossicologiche Europee
Tessili e
Abbigliamento
Uomo/Donna
Tessili e
Abbigliamento
Bambino
Tessili per Arredo e
Biancheria per la
Casa
Tessili Tecnici e
Abbigliamento
Professionale
Ecotossicologicamente
compatibili
Sostegni alla capacità produttiva
Sul fronte finanziario
6
UNA PREVIDENZA
PER LO SVILUPPO
Come il TFR confluito nei Fondi Pensione di
categoria possa favorire gli investimenti

Sul fronte delle risorse
7
8
9
LA MODA E’ DONNA
L’ENERGIA PER
COMPETERE
MENO RISCHI, PIU’
FLESSIBILITA’, MENO
COSTI
Valorizzazione e agevolazione
dell’occupazione femminile
Riconoscere lo status energivoro di molte PMI
e contenere le accise
Riduzioni dei premi INAIL e rivisitazione dei
conteggi per la CIG

Sul fronte dell’innovazione
10
LE COLLEZIONI COME
R&S
Lo studio e la realizzazione dei campionari sono
meritevoli di credito (d’imposta)

Industrial policy for
Textile and Clothing Industry
1.
2.
3.
4.
General framework
Industrial policy for sectors and clusters in the ‘90s
Industrial policy for competitive framework and
companies’ networks in the 2000s
Industrial policy for the next future
Industrial policy for the next future
1.EU '2020 strategy'
2.SMI considerations
SMI points
SMI vision for Italian T&F future
EU '2020 strategy'
in November 2009, the European Commission
proposed a wide-ranging strategy (*) to lift the
EU out of recession and to lead Europe
towards a
green, knowledge-based economy
by 2020
(*)= the successor to the current Lisbon Strategy
Europe needs a common agenda
the new Commission vision
for where the European Union should be in
2020
new sustainable social market economy, a
smarter, greener economy where prosperity
Time table
24 November 2009: Commission launch of a
consultation for citizens, companies, Associations…
on the internet (http://ec.europa.eu/eu2020/)
15 January 2010: Deadline for the consultation
23 March 2010: EU's Heads of State and
Government summit to approve:
the whole strategy and
the EUROPEAN INNOVATION ACT (5 years plan):
innovation = political priority
Main challenges of the EU2020
strategy
the structural challenges identified as the basis for the
EU 2020 strategy:
globalisation
climate change
ageing population
Main topics of the EU2020
strategy
to confront these structural challenges EU
Commission proposes to have a common
agenda whose main topics can be
summarised as follows:
1. Exit strategy from the crisis
2. Four key priorities
3. EU member states firmly in control
1. Exit strategy from the crisis
the first key challenge will be to balance the "continued need for fiscal
support" for economic growth in the short term with "the need to
restore sustainable public finances and macroeconomic stability" in
the long run.
Member states will need to redirect public expenditure towards the
thematic objectives of EU 2020 so that the necessary investments
in Europe's future can be made.
2. Four key priorities
a)
b)
c)
d)
Innovation and knowledge
Fighting exclusion
Green growth
Digital, transportation, energy
infrastructure for Europe
Innovation and knowledge
The "engine for sustainable growth"
knowledge and technology
EU needs to move to "a value economy"
In a fast-changing world, what makes the difference is innovation in both
products and processes
is
Fighting exclusion
With unemployment set to hit double-digit figures in
2010, the Commission recommends:
"empowering people" in order to create new (kinds of)
jobs
transition between jobs and training periods will require
a major effort to prevent people falling out of the
system
Green growth
With higher energy prices and greater competition for
natural resources, European businesses need to
adapt
More efficient use of resources, energy, and the application of new, greener
technologies will stimulate growth, create new jobs and services and help
the EU meet its environmental and climate goals
Digital, transportation, energy
infrastructure for Europe
Developing a "smart, upgraded transport and
energy infrastructures to improve
competitiveness“
Besides those priorities
Single Market should be
better exploited
liberalisation for the benefit of
the consumers
Trade Policy should:
promote
the principles
underlying the sustainable
social market economy in the
global context
ensure that barriers to
international flows of trade
and investment are reduced
promote open and rulesbased global trade
3. EU member states firmly in
control of the agenda
European Council of heads of state should fix a
small number of headline objectives and
define the corresponding policy action to be
pursued at EU and member state level in
partnership
For each objective, member states would set
their individual targets for five years
corresponding to their national situations and
their starting points
Summarizing
STRUCTURAL CHALLENGES
 globalisation
European Union
SOCIAL MEGATRENDS
 climate changes
Country
 ageing population
Region
Expectations in
Economic development
RULES,
STANDARDISATION (*),
TAX POLICIES &
SUBSIDIES
(*) = OPEN & MARKET STANDARDS
Company
= private initiative
INNOVATION
for profit in the long
run, more than “quick
money”
SMI considerations
The above priorities could be
broadly accepted.
However…
T&F characteristics
T&F is a creative and innovative industry,
characterised by a large number of very
small to medium size companies subject to
the effects of the globalisation of its markets
while developing and marketing flexible
materials and products for a myriad of
applications for everyday life
T&F environmental performance
The European textile and clothing pipeline has
an environmental and carbon footprint which is
probably amongst the lowest in the world and
its products are essential components in many
environmental functions
SMI points
1.
2.
3.
4.
definition of innovation
support of T&F SMEs
more effective demand-side measures
more focused Regulation and more
active promotion policies for greener
textiles and clothing products
Need for clearer and correct definition of the
term “creative industry” or innovation
such concept also cover the “non-technological
innovation” which is key to European textile
and clothing industries
such intangible value creation is a clear strength
of the sector
A controversial point
Most governmental policies remain focused on
science and technological innovation: the
financial support to innovative companies
generally means support to technologically
innovative companies.
But
non-technological innovation should also be
strongly supported as they also generate
value and employment.
in addition…
non-technological innovation is generally less
intensive in initial capital and therefore less
risky.
No always an innovative technology should
necessarily underlie an innovative service or
business model
INNOVATION (Oslo Manual 2005, OECD)
the implementation of a new or
significantly improved
product (good or service), or
process, a new marketing
method, or a new
organisational method in
business practices,
workplace organisation or
external relations




A product innovation is the introduction
of a good or service that is new or
significantly improved with respect to its
characteristics or intended uses...
A
process
innovation
is
the
implementation of a new or significantly
improved production or delivery method...
A
marketing
innovation
is
the
implementation of a new marketing
method involving significant changes in
product design or packaging, product
placement, product promotion or pricing.
An organisational innovation is the
implementation of a new organisational
method...
Innovation for a “demanding” final consumer
Some Features of the
“modern” Western
Consumer
How to deal with him/her?
(some ideas)
Informed and prepared
Creativity
Unfaithful
First class distribution
Impulsive
Without “real” needs to
satisfy
He/she wants emotions,
gratifications
Quickness
Optimize quality/price ratio
 Global network of partners
in sourcing, manufacturing
and distribution
Maslow's Hierarchy of Needs
Giving support to T&F SMEs
accessibility, flexibility and simplicity of schemes
for public resources to stimulate research,
creativity, innovation
access to credit for innovation carried out by
creative SMEs should be easier, more
available and affordable
simplification of legislation (i.e.: adoption of
simplified rules on generic fibre names and in
the rules on bioactive fibres)
more effective demand-side
measures
a clearer link between research, innovation and
public procurement
public authorities should encourage more visibly
the uptake of the innovative products in the
day-to-day life of their administrations
more focused Regulations
avoid new Regulations disconnected from the
life-cycle of the technologies
the return on investment is by far not always
there is an underlying danger
new policies will be only “environmentally-friendly”
driven irrespective of the costs that those will
represent for the EU manufacturing industry
more active promotion policies for greener
textiles and clothing products
consumers’ resistance in rewarding more
environmentally-friendly products/processes
consumers is not adapting his/her wish for a
“safer, greener consumption” with its
behaviour as he/she is not prepared to pay
adequately for “greener” but slightly costlier
textile and clothing products.
active tax policies and subsidies
to stimulate more demand for greener textile
Vision SMI per il futuro dell’industria
Tessile-Moda italiana:
non una soluzione, ma
alcune strategie
L’Italia deve fare politica industriale per i
settori in cui siamo specializzati
il tessuto economico
futuro sarà ancora
formato per gran parte
dai settori che solo oggi
prevalenti, ma con una
struttura organizzativa e
produttiva “aggiornata”

Promozione dello
sviluppo delle piccole e
medie imprese (PMI) e
delle micro imprese
(<10 addetti)

Innovazione di prodotto
e commerciale
Il punto di partenza: le nostre
caratteristiche
Integrazione e coesione di filiera
Economie di prossimità
Velocità
Flessibilità
Efficienza
Focus sul consumatore
Vicinanza
Identità e tradizione dinamica
Qualità
Valori estetici
Valori etico-sociali
Valori eco-tossicologici
Trasparenza e sostenibilità
Valore
Sentieri di
sviluppo
focalizzati non
sulla crescita
quantitativa, ma
sulla crescita di
valore
La globalizzazione comporta…





Servire molti paesi, molto lontani geograficamente
e anche culturalmente
Grande interdipendenza
Riduzione della prevedibilità
Aumento della capacità organizzativa e gestionale
Aumento dei rischi (misurabili) e dell’incertezza
(non misurabile)
COMPLESSITA’
 COMPLICATO
 COMPLESSO
La globalizzazione richiede…




Maggiori risorse interne e competenze evolute
Maggiori capitali per affrontare maggiori
investimenti
Maggiori capitali per coprire maggiori rischi e
maggiore incertezza
Approcci multiculturali
(Hermès per il mercato cinese ha creato una nuova griffe:
Shang Xia)
AGGREGAZIONE di PMI
(equity / non equity)
PMI globali… PMI in rete
INNOVAZIONE
RICERCA
INTERNAZIONALIZZAZIONE
La forza della rete
Identità individuale e
controllo familiare
Dimensione economica e potere di
mercato pari alla somma delle PMI
La Ricerca ieri: fornitori
Ieri: pochi, grandi fornitori, molto qualificati,
che facevano internamente la ricerca e la
diffondevano tramite la vendita dei loro
prodotti (industria chimica e meccanotessile)
 Oggi: tanto fornitori di commodities, senza
attività di ricerca interna, poco innovativi, con
scarsa capacità di differenziazione

La Ricerca oggi:
Università e Centi di ricerca



la Piattaforma Tecnologica per il T&M
Da commodity a prodotti speciali
Nuove applicazioni tessili
Mass costumisation & quick response
DALLA CHIMICA TESSILE ALLA MODA:
MULTIFUNZIONALITA, SOSTENIBILITA,
COMPETITIVITA’
22nd IFATCC INTERNATIONAL CONGRESS
Italia, Stresa, 5-7 Maggio, 2010
DALLA CHIMICA TESSILE ALLA MODA:
MULTIFUNZIONALITA, SOSTENIBILITA,
COMPETITIVITA’

LA CHIMICA TESSILE SOSTENIBILE
Materie prime di origine biologica e processi rispettosi dell'ambiente. Precursori e
polimeri per nuove fibre, ausiliari, coloranti, tessili biologici

INNOVARE LA FILIERA TESSILE
Introduzione di nuove tecnologie per accrescere il valore aggiunto. Filatura,
preparazione, tintura e stampa, finissaggio, applicazioni specifiche di superficie,
bio e nanotecnologie, tecniche e strumenti di misura

QUALITA’, AMBIENTE E SICUREZZA
Standard e tecnologie. Come accrescere la qualità dei prodotti e dei processi e
proteggere l'ambiente e la salute
http://www.stresa2010.org
DALLA CHIMICA TESSILE ALLA MODA:
MULTIFUNZIONALITA, SOSTENIBILITA,
COMPETITIVITA’

IL MONDO DEI TESSILI TECNICI
Nuove opportunità offerte al settore dei tessili tradizionali e sviluppo di applicazioni
innovative in settori non convenzionali

IL MACCHINARIO TESSILE
Fattore trainante per realizzare processi efficienti, ecologici e di basso costo

LA MODA
Elemento di primaria importanza strategica: fashion e design, lo sforzo congiunto del
settore manifatturiero per la crescita del valore tecnico
ed economico del tessile
http://www.stresa2010.org
Innovazione commerciale:
Se la gerarchia dei bisogni è fatta così…
…allora dobbiamo posizionare il prodotto
moda tra i beni “relazionali”
anche in termini di NUOVO RAPPORTO CON IL
CONSUMATORE: e-commerce e on-line marketing
ASPETTATIVE DI BUSINESS NEI
MERCATI MATURI
È improbabile che la
ripresa sia sostenuta
 I consumi sono previsti
in calo o stagnanti
 La competizione è sempre più forte, spinta
anche dall’apprezzamento dell’euro

La ripresa può essere agganciata
tramite il commercio estero
 Sviluppare
la strategia di apertura
reciproca dei mercati
 Combattere le barriere non-tariffarie
 Concentrare gli sforzi in quei
Paesi o aree con i mercati
più grandi o promettenti
per le nostre industrie
Sentieri di sviluppo
SFIDE
Globalizzazione
Linee d’azione a livello
macro
Gestire complessità e rischi
Razionalizzare sovra-capacità
produttiva
Strategie del Sistema
Associativo Tessile-Moda
Know–how per aggregazioni
(equity/no-equity) e potenziamento
networking
Criticità ambientali
UE/società stazionarie
(invecchiamento popolazione,
senza crescita)
Capire trend di mercato
PRIORITA’
Nuovi mercati (BRIC;
STIM; Paesi Arabi)
Analisi di supporto alle decisioni di
medio-lungo termine
Servizi evoluti ad alto valore aggiunto
Definire politiche
industriali
 Promozione/esplorazione mkt
 Apertura mkt (norme)
Nuovi sbocchi (tessili non
convenzionali, biomedicali, per
diagnostica)
 Ricerca applicata e sviluppo
Nuovi prodotti (tradizionali ma
 Brevetti; collaborazione con
Università e Centri di ricerca
con componenti innovative)
 Marchi/brand
 Creatività
Thank you!
Mauro Chezzi
Deputy director
Sistema Moda Italia
www.sistemamodaitalia.com