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of piedmont - I paesaggi vitivinicoli
ALL THE SHADES OF PIEDMONT VINEYARD LANDSCAPE OF LANGHE-ROERO AND MONFERRATO IS A UNESCO WORLD HERITAGE SITE Piedmont PIEDMONT, UNESCO’S WORLD HERITAGE VINEYARDS Piedmont is a region in northwest Italy with a long and important vocation for winemaking. Its name, meaning “at the foot of the mountains”, refers to the lie of its land: on one side, it is protected by the Alps, while up from the Ligurian Sea to the south blows the warm marin wind. This combination creates an especially mild climate suitable for vine cultivation. For centuries, the grape and wine have been part and parcel of the culture of the Piedmontese people. Wine has always been synonymous with a strong historical and cultural identity and the earliest evidence of winemaking dates back to the 10th century BC. Down the years, production choices have been oriented towards denominations that guarantee origin and quality: hence, today most of the bottles produced come under one of the 18 DOCGs or 42 DOCs. In this important economy, the men and women who renew their deep bond with the land and the vine through their daily labours count just as much as the figures. In June 2014, the vineyard landscape of the Langhe-Roero and Monferrato, along with the “underground cathedrals” (the historical wine cellars) of Canelli, were recognised as a UNESCO World Heritage site. 19,000 winegrowing estates 43,500 hectares of vineyards 2.5 million hectolitres of wine produced every year Picture: Grinzane Cavour Castle S OIL, SHELLS AND FOSSILS: WHEN THERE WAS SEA IN PIEDMONT Langhe Monferrato Roero Canavese Collina Torinese Tortonese From two to five million years ago, the sea reached as far as the Alps. Its ancient presence lives on today in Piedmont in the form of the fossils of the animals that lived in it: shells and the remains of fin whales and other marine animals have been found in many places, notably in the wine hills of the Roero and Langa districts and of the provinces of Asti and Alessandria. During the Pliocene, the sea also affected soil types, calcareous marls differentiated by geological era: sandier in the Roero and Monferrato Astigiano districts (“Asti sands”), richer in silt and clay between the Langa hills and the area round Acqui Terme. Types are more varied in the area around Gavi, where red and white soils alternate with sand and stone. All are terrains highly suitable for vine growing. T HE L ANGA HILLS, HOME TO NOBLE REDS The Langa, which means “narrow strip of land”, is an area of wine hills and valleys between the River Tanaro and the Ligurian Apennines: thousands of hectares of vineyards and, all around, horizons capped by medieval hilltop villages with towers and castles at altitudes of up to 950 metres above sea level. The heart and soul of the area is the small town of Alba, famous all over the world for its white truffle, Tuber Magnatum Pico. The land here is ideal for the production of noble red wines with the Nebbiolo grape: meaning Barolo and Barbaresco. Other lesser-known reds, such as Dogliani, made with the Dolcetto grape, Dolcetto di Diano d’Alba, Barbera d’Alba and Nebbiolo d’Alba are also growing in popularity. Last but not least, rare and recherché grape varieties give rise to niche wines, such as the scented Verduno Pelaverga, that are making Piedmontese winegrowing and its micro-denominations all the more unique. Barolo Docg Barbaresco Docg Dogliani Docg Dolcetto di Diano d’Alba Docg Barbera d’Alba Doc Nebbiolo d’Alba Doc Dolcetto d’Alba Doc Langhe Doc Verduno Pelaverga Doc Picture: Langa vineyard landscape THE MONFERRATO DISTRICT: FAIRYTALE CASTLES AND VINEYARDS AMID GENTLY ROLLING HILLS Magnificent castles, old churches and evocative medieval villages with tall towers - the rolling Monferrato hills, which occupy the square formed by the towns of Asti, Alessandria, Acqui Terme and Gavi, are rich in history, vineyards and natural beauty. In this area, for centuries strategic for commerce between the Mediterranean and the rest of Europe, numerous varieties of red and white grapes are grown. Barbera d’Asti is the red grape that best reflects the land and its people. But just as typical, albeit in smaller quantities, are wines such as Freisa and the Ruchè of Castagnole Monferrato - a few hectares of vine rows that yield a red with a scent of violets. Moving down seawards, we comes across Gavi, an old, scented, elegant white made with Cortese grapes. Barbera d’Asti Docg Ruchè di Castagnole Monferrato Docg Grignolino d’Asti Doc Grignolino del Monferrato Casalese Doc Piemonte Doc Barbera del Monferrato Doc Dolcetto d’Acqui Doc Dolcetto d’Asti Doc Freisa d’Asti Doc Albugnano Doc Picture: Monferrato vineyard landscape T HE R OERO DISTRICT: THE WILD BEAUTY OF THE ROCCHE The Roero district is situated at the heart of the wine hills between Langa and Monferrato. An aristocratic land, it is named after a noble local family that was powerful during the Middle Ages. The characteristic landscape alternates towers, vineyards, orchards, woods and the wild beauty of the so-called rocche. In the Roero hills this ancient and unique phenomenon of erosion of the River Tanaro has created precipices that appear all of a sudden, some of them hundreds of metres deep. The sandy hill walls create sharp rocks with the most wild and wonderful shapes, and magnificent natural amphitheatres through which it is possible to walk following the old peasant tracks. The rocche also testify to the civilization of wine, revealing the geological strata in which the vines sink their roots. Roero Docg Roero Arneis Docg Picture: the Roero Rocche F IVE SHADES OF WHITE The other face of Piedmont is represented by white wines that combine tradition and innovation. Old grape varieties such as Cortese, Timorasso and Erbaluce are now presented using new languages and interpretations. Cortese is elegantly expressed in Gavi Docg, in eleven municipalities around the town of Gavi. Remaining within the province of Alessandria, another expression of this grape is found in Cortese dell’Alto Monferrato Doc. Erbaluce is the white wine par excellence of the Canavese district and it bears the name of Caluso, a small town in the area: it is a versatile grape variety that can be used to make dry, metodo classico and passito wine. Timorasso has been rediscovered by the winegrowers of the Curone, Grue, Ossona and Val Borbera valleys, in an area protected against the winds, in which the vine finds its ideal habitat. The youngest and most modern interpretation of white (and rosé) wine is Alta Langa Metodo Classico, a highly prestigious brut or pas dosé sparkling wine. Just 110 hectares cultivated with Pinot Noir and Chardonnay on the hills of 146 municipal districts to the right of the River Tanaro. Every bottle is filled with wine from a single vintage, and the year of reference is indicated on the label. Gavi Docg Alta Langa Docg Erbaluce di Caluso Docg Cortese dell’Alto Monferrato Doc Timorasso Doc Picture: Gavi fortress S MALL DOC WINES AND “HEROIC” VITICULTURE Carema Freisa di Chieri and Collina Torinese Colli Tortonesi Great, internationally renowned wines but also small Docs, often produced thanks to the most “heroic” viticulture, requiring an awful lot of hard work and passion for the steep Piedmont hills. One such wine is Carema, made with Nebbiolo grapes cultivated on terraces dug into the rocks that characterise the landscape where Piedmont meets the Valle d’Aosta. Then there are the wines of the Colli Tortonesi, another border area, located in the Tortona hills, and a strategic crossroads in centuries gone by. Freisa di Chieri is an old black grape grown in the area between the River Po (Chieri and the hills above Turin) and Monferrato, cultivated and passed on to us by the Augustinian monks of Vezzolano Abbey. The Doc Collina Torinese was established in 1999 and expesses the native grape varieties: Bonarda, Barbera, Malvasia and Cari. Carema Collina Torinese Colli Tortonesi Freisa di Chieri Freisa dei Colli Tortonesi Picture: Queen vineyard of Turin A ROMATIC WINES The Monferrato hills also give life to a unique aromatic wine: Moscato d’Asti, nicknamed the “gold of the hills”. White Moscato grapes are also used to make an internationally famous sparkling wine or spumante, Asti DOCG. Some of the historical areas where Moscato d’Asti Docg is made are characterised by sori, steeply sloping vineyards which are hard to cultivate but are of the most outstanding beauty. The sori contributed to the recognition of the area as a UNESCO World Heritage site. Moving to the old spa town of Acqui Terme, we come to the home of Brachetto, a sweet, aromatic red that goes well with desserts and fruit. Asti Docg Moscato d’Asti Docg Picture: moscato vineyard under the snow Brachetto d’Acqui Docg Malvasia di Castelnuovo Don Bosco Doc Picture: Canelli underground cathedrals T H E U N E SCO W ORLD H ERIT AGE “UNDERGROUND CATHEDRALS” AND “INFERNOT” The hills of Piedmont have a hidden soul: a close-knit network of historical cellars, underground tunnels that run for kilometre upon kilometre from Langa to Monferrato to Roero. Hand-dug, some of them are as majestic as cathedrals, such as Canelli’s wine cellars, masterpieces of “oeno-architecture”, became UNESCO’s World Heritage site. Others, known as infernot (the darkest corner), are small galleries hewn out of the soil by hand. They are also known as crutin, or small caves. The most prized wine has rested and aged in them for centuries. The infernot in the Monferrato district have been included on UNESCO’s World Heritage List. Monferrato cave THE WINE HARVEST, AN ANCIENT RITE OF THE LAND Piedmontese families hand down stories and knowledge about work in the vineyard and the cellar. Despite the modernization of agricultural equipment, the way of making wine has never changed. The grapes are still picked by hand and the harvest is one of the most greatly anticipated events in the farming calendar. It generally begins in the early autumn, from September to October, when the first mists descend on the hills and the cold turns the leaves red and yellow. In Piedmont, the harvest signifies hard work but is also a rite and an opportunity to make merry. In the weeks until the grapes are all in the cellar and the old vines go back to sleep for the winter, the vine rows echo to the sound of people shouting and singing. TOWERS, CASTLES AND CHURCHES: PIEDMONT’S MEDIEVAL “TREASURE” Piedmont guards an immense “treasure” of medieval towers, forts, castles and churches: a heritage of history and monuments that makes the region all the more exceptional and unique. From the castle of Barolo to the fort of Gavi, here you take a big step back in time. Out in the countryside, among the vineyards, the region is dotted with hundreds of small churches and votive chapels housing sculptures and paintings from centuries past. Other historical testimonies are the casot or ciabot, typical red brick constructions used to this day by farmers to store their tools or rest from their labours in the vineyards. Every vineyard has one. Casot and farmhouses combine to give the landscape of Piedmont’s wine hills their distinctive appearance. Left picture: San Bernardino chapel in Paroldo; right picture: Vengone tower, Roccaverano. THE MYSTERIOUS CHARM OF T HE A L B A W H ITE TR UFFL E In Piedmont, autumn is the season in which Tuber Magnatum Pico, the Alba white truffle, is gathered. This highly prized and aromatic underground fungus grows in symbiosis with the roots of some trees, notably oaks and poplars. It is hunted by dogs specially trained to sniff out its characteristic odour. When a dog locates a truffle, it starts scratching the soil with its paws and the truffle hunter, or tartufaio, eases out the fungus with a small hoe. The truffle is a refined, expensive delicacy, which is grated over many Piedmontese dishes. Truffle hunts are often carried out in the woods by night in the mist and the moonlight, all of which further enhances the charm of the Piedmontese autumn. THE EXCELLENCE OF PIEDMONTESE CUISINE Piedmont is also a region of great gastronomic and agri-food excellence: from cheese to native breed beef, to rice. A great deal of fruit is also grown: kiwis, peaches, apples and, above all, the “Tonda e Gentile di Langa” hazelnut, a key ingredient in many a cake and chocolate. Piedmont’s excellent produce is much prized and enhanced by great international restaurants and the region’s cuisine is well known and loved all over the world. Its best-known dishes are: tajarin, handmade egg pasta ribbons, often served with white truffle; agnolotti, also known as plin, pasta stuffed with meat and vegetables; bagna cauda, a warm sauce made of anchovies, garlic and oil into which vegetables are dipped; bonet, a chocolate dessert; and zabaglione, a custard made with eggs and Moscato d’Asti wine. The repertoire is completed and enriched by wines and truffles. Left picture: bagna cauda; right picture: tajarin with white truffle THE PIEMONTE LAND OF PERFECTION CONSORTIUM Piemonte Land of Perfection came into being on July 29 2011 to promote and promulgate this unique heritage of excellences and dream landscapes. This major consortium, which brings together all the main wine Consorzio dell’Alta Langa www.altalangadocg.it Consorzio dell’Asti www.astidocg.it Consorzio del Barolo Barbaresco Alba Langhe e Dogliani www.langhevini.it Consorzio del Brachetto e dei Vini d’Acqui www.brachettodacqui.com Consorzio della Barbera d’Asti e Vini del Monferrato www.viniastimonferrato.it Consorzio Vini Doc Caluso Carema Canavese www.caremavini.it Consorzio Vini Colli Tortonesi www.collitortonesi.com Consorzio della Freisa di Chieri e Collina Torinese www.freisadichieri.it Consorzio del Gavi www.consorziogavi.com Consorzio del Roero www.consorziodelroero.it Vignaioli Piemontesi www.vignaioli.it protection consortia and the most important producers’ association, seeks to promote Piedmont’s wines, the excellence of its agri-food produce and the beauty of its landscapes, especially on overseas markets. Its members are: Piemonte Land of Perfection Via Alba 15 - 12050 Castagnito (Cn) [email protected] [email protected] web: www.piemonteland.it graphics by: ALESSANDRO RIZZOGLIO words by: FIAMMETTA MUSSIO photos by: FRANCO BELLO, ENZO MASSA, GIULIO MORRA, BRUNO MURIALDO translation by: ANNETTE FOWLES, JOHN IRVING printed by: TEC-ARTIGRAFICHE.IT under the patronage of